The Viennese chocolate cake, Sachertorte, dates back to 1832, when Prince Wenzel von Metternich demanded his personal chef create a special dessert for several important guests. However, the chef fell ill and his sixteen-year-old apprentice, Franz Sacher, had to step in. The torte was born, though it was not immediately famous. Indeed, it was Franz Sacher’s son, Eduard, who further developed the recipe; the torte was first served to the public at the Demel bakery, where Eduard completed his training, and later at the Hotel Sacher, which was established by Eduard in 1876.
In the early 1900s, a massive legal battle developed between Hotel Sacher and the Demel Bakery over rights to use the Sachertorte name. Eventually, Hotel Sacher won the rights to the phrase The Original Sachertorte and Demel had the rights to decorate its tortes with a triangular seal saying Eduard-Sacher-Torte.
If you fancy trying a slice of the original cake it is still sold at the Hotel Sacher, and can even be ordered online. Needless to say, I felt duty bound to try the confection so I popped into the Cafe Sacher, along with many other chocolate-loving tourists. I have to say the service was surly and perfunctory, the atmosphere was cold and the cake was somewhat dry. I t certainly wasn’t the special taste or experience that I expected.
Various incarnations of the cake pop up all over Vienna, going under a variety of pseudonyms. When I popped into the Motto am Fluss Cafe on the Donau Canal for a break from my chilly canal-side walk, I just couldn’t resist the schlachertorte that beckoned from the cabinet. I am so glad I gave in to temptation; it was a rich, moist, firm chocolate cake with a hint of apricot and an attractive swoosh of gold on the shiny chocolate topping. The service was friendly and efficient and the place had a relaxed, welcoming atmosphere.
In my book, schlacher won over sacher.